El Santuario de Atotonilco

   It's Sunday, and Marlene, Max and I are visiting the sanctuary of Atotonilco (meaning 'Place of the Hot Waters').  Before our visit, I wanted to spend some time researching its history because this area is strongly related to Mexico's fight for independence.  

   Here's a short version of its very interesting past.  The sanctuary is a complex of buildings dominated by the original church, founded in 1740 by Father Alfaro.  This area is full of hot springs where public bathing occurred (inappropriately, he believed), and Father Alfaro decided that a religious presence was greatly needed.  The church took over 35 years to build.

   After building this grand church, he commissioned a local artist to paint murals depicting his own instructive verses, with much emphasis on the consequences of leading a sinful life.  The murals and his verses cover the interior walls and ceilings.  There are, in no particular pattern, flowers, fantastic creatures, virgins, Christs, sculptures, gilded mirrors, and altars.  It has sometimes been called the 'Sistine Chapel of the Americas.'

   The church has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the complex still functions as a pilgrimage for people coming from all over the country to spend a week of prayer and meditation.

   As we walk from our car up the path to the church, it's market day and there are vendors all along the way, many selling hats, veils, and scarves preparatory to the church visit.  

The outer church is very large.  Inside, it's composed of smaller, separate chapels.

Murals depicting the consequences of sin and Father Alfaro's verses written along the arched openings.

The main chapel of the church

The chapel of the Virgin of Guadalupe

The ceiling of the Chapel of the Virgin

A beautiful, carved wood door from the 18th century

   Father Alvaro built Atotonilco on the spot where he was visited by a vision of Christ.  Coincidentally (?), seventy years later in the nearby town of Dolores, another Father, Miguel Hildalgo, who was leading the fight for independence from the Spanish, was warned of his imminent capture.  He fled immediately towards San Miguel. 

    En route, he stopped at Atotonilco and took the church's image of the Virgin of Guadalupe as his banner, declaring her the protector of the new nation of Mexico.  The image of the Virgin has continued to protect Mexico's independence and individual spirit throughout these many years to the present day.

Father Miguel Hildalgo with the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe

We are visiting on Sunday, when the path to the church is lined with vendors selling hats, scarves, and souvenirs.  There's also food for sale, like these chickens being prepared on grills fashioned from metal barrels.

This perro (dog) is NOT friendly!  I think he would like to bite all of us.