El Santuario de Atotonilco

   It's Sunday, and Marlene, Max and I are visiting the sanctuary of Atotonilco (meaning 'Place of the Hot Waters').  Before our visit, I wanted to spend some time researching its history because this area is strongly related to Mexico's fight for independence.  

   Here's a short version of its very interesting past.  The sanctuary is a complex of buildings dominated by the original church, founded in 1740 by Father Alfaro.  This area is full of hot springs where public bathing occurred (inappropriately, he believed), and Father Alfaro decided that a religious presence was greatly needed.  The church took over 35 years to build.

   After building this grand church, he commissioned a local artist to paint murals depicting his own instructive verses, with much emphasis on the consequences of leading a sinful life.  The murals and his verses cover the interior walls and ceilings.  There are, in no particular pattern, flowers, fantastic creatures, virgins, Christs, sculptures, gilded mirrors, and altars.  It has sometimes been called the 'Sistine Chapel of the Americas.'

   The church has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the complex still functions as a pilgrimage for people coming from all over the country to spend a week of prayer and meditation.

   As we walk from our car up the path to the church, it's market day and there are vendors all along the way, many selling hats, veils, and scarves preparatory to the church visit.  

The outer church is very large.  Inside, it's composed of smaller, separate chapels.

Murals depicting the consequences of sin and Father Alfaro's verses written along the arched openings.

The main chapel of the church

The chapel of the Virgin of Guadalupe

The ceiling of the Chapel of the Virgin

A beautiful, carved wood door from the 18th century

   Father Alvaro built Atotonilco on the spot where he was visited by a vision of Christ.  Coincidentally (?), seventy years later in the nearby town of Dolores, another Father, Miguel Hildalgo, who was leading the fight for independence from the Spanish, was warned of his imminent capture.  He fled immediately towards San Miguel. 

    En route, he stopped at Atotonilco and took the church's image of the Virgin of Guadalupe as his banner, declaring her the protector of the new nation of Mexico.  The image of the Virgin has continued to protect Mexico's independence and individual spirit throughout these many years to the present day.

Father Miguel Hildalgo with the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe

We are visiting on Sunday, when the path to the church is lined with vendors selling hats, scarves, and souvenirs.  There's also food for sale, like these chickens being prepared on grills fashioned from metal barrels.

This perro (dog) is NOT friendly!  I think he would like to bite all of us.

Frida Kahlo - photos by Nickolas Muray

  Right now, at the Fullerton Museum Center in Fullerton, California, there is an exhibit of photographs of Frida Kahlo.  Over the last several decades, Frida has become a cultural icon in Mexico.  Her image is represented in paintings, sculptures, and posters and is also found in hundreds of 'touristy' items sold in stores and by street vendors.

  Initially known only as the wife of Mexican artist, Diego Rivera, Frida began producing her own art in 1932, mostly self-portraits full of passion and pain based on her own personal struggles.  I read at the exhibit that her paintings currently command the highest prices of any artist in this hemisphere.

   The photos in this exhibit were taken by Nickolas Muray, a well-known photographer in the 1930s and 1940s who pioneered color portraiture in photography.  When he met Frida in 1931, they began a romance that would last for the next ten years.  These photos from his collection reveal his mastery of his craft as well as his personal love for his subject, Frida Kahlo.

   For local readers, I highly recommend a visit to the Fullerton Museum Center to see this exhibit, which is ending Sunday, November 20.  The photos below are only a small display of Nickolas Muray's collection.

Titled 'Frida on White Bench'  1939

Titled 'Frida on Rooftop,' taken in New York City when Frida came to the United States for back surgery.  She suffered throughout her life from injuries she sustained in her youth in a bus accident.

Frida kept a menagerie of animals in her home.

Frida.  Frida.  Frida.

Photo taken at Frida's home in Coyoacán, Mexico.  1940

Photos of Frida's paintings - the original still life painting on the right was a gift from her to Nickolas.

Frida dressed almost exclusively in colorful Tehuana costumes (traditional dress of Zapotec women) which complimented her own striking features.

Her hair was often styled with flowers.

A classic photograph of Frida Kahlo with her husband, Diego Rivera.  1941

Fullerton has several large hearts on display in its downtown that have been decorated by local artists.  This  heart, across from the museum, presents a Mexican theme fitting to the exhibit.

Esteban Valdez, a Living Treasure of San Miguel de Allende

   Marlene, our friend and also a local resident, is tour guide as we set out to Pantoja to find Rancho Las Flores, the home (campo) of Esteban Valdez, San Miguel de Allende's 'master' potter.

   San Jose de Pantoja is a small village outside of San Miguel de Allende.  There are only a few hundred people and it's very rural--roads are dirt and there's dust in the summer and much mud in the winter.  It's understatement to say that Rancho Las Flores is 'off the beaten path.'  In fact, I can hardly believe that Marlene finds it.  There are no signs and all roads look the same to me.


   Esteban Valdez, now in his mid 80s, is a self-taught potter who creates simple clay bowls with primitive, fanciful designs of animals.  His bowls are collected by many and I've read that one of his pieces is part of a collection at the Smithsonian.  These bowls are sold at several locations in San Miguel, but coming to his home and studio to purchase is a special opportunity.


   We learn that to make his bowls, Sr. Valdez uses clay from the nearby river.  He begins to form the clay on a large flat rock that he says was given to him by his father when he was a child.  He then uses molds to form his bowls, and takes a hair from his donkey's tail to trim the edges.  The dark pigment he uses to paint his designs is made from pieces of soft coal mashed and mixed with water.  He fires the pottery in a simple kiln with four brick walls and a sheet metal roof at about 1800 degrees.


   Sr. Valdez says that his grown children are not interested in learning his skills of making  ceramics, so sadly, when he dies, there will be no one to carry on.
        

Marlene in front of the campo of Esteban Valdez.  His vocation as a potter is unique. The town's main industry is brick making.

Max and I get to have our picture taken with Esteban Valdez and his wife

Esteban and his wife at the door of their studio where finished bowls are stored.  He is in his mid 80s and there is no one to carry on his pottery-making tradition.

One of the large bowls, El Pato (The Duck).  E.V. initials are found on many of the pieces

Small bowl - maybe a monkey, maybe a cat, maybe.....

Another large bowl decorated with a whimsical stag

These bowls didn't survive the firing in the kiln.

As we leave Pantoja, we see this lovely iglesia, colorfully decorated; also with a new concrete pad and benches, possibly for multiple activities in the community.

Dia de los Muertos in Pátzcuaro, Mexico

   My husband and I visited the town of Pátzcuaro in the state of Michoacán for its Day of the Dead celebration, one of the best known in Mexico.  The source for this holiday dates back over a thousand years in indigenous culture and honors the spirits of deceased ancestors, family, and friends.

   While the holiday is officially celebrated on November 1st and 2nd, preparations are made far in advance.  Many homes and businesses create private altars with offerings including flowers, candles, fruit, pan de muerto (sweet bread), and drinks (I noticed that beer and soda is popular) for the weary spirits.  

   In cemeteries, several days before, graves are cleaned and decorated with all the favorite things of the departed loved one. There can be photos, toys, special food dishes, religious icons--any personal remembrances.  Several things that are guaranteed to be there--MANY candles and flowers!!  The primary flower used is the orange-yellow marigold, there are thousands and thousands of these blooms all over.  A major symbol of the holiday is the skull and its shape can be found in dolls (Catrinas), candy (sugar skulls), bread, masks, and just about anything else.

   On the night of November 1st, friends and family gather at the gravesite.  There may be picnics, music playing, and stories being told.  This will last all night.  Hopefully, spirits will join in as well.  

   Visitors, like us, that come by are welcomed and sometimes offered food and anecdotes of the family's dead ancestor.  Rather than sadness, the deceased person's life is celebrated with appreciation and respect.  The local people's celebration contains a ritual aspect and spirituality that I find touching and soulful.

This altar is in a private home

This altar and its ofrendas (offerings) is in the entrance of our hotel, La Casa Encantada, which is a wonderful place and a perfect location for all festivities.  See below for link:

http://lacasaencantada.com/suites.php

Local businesses in town also create altars - a couple of large Catrinas in this one

A VERY large Catrina (loosely translated as 'female dandy')

Decorating a wooden arch for the entrance to the pier at Lake Pátzcuaro

The completed arch being erected

Decorated gravesites on the evening of November 1st

An elaborate gravesite and memorial

This cross is filled with fruit and pan de muerto (sweet bread)

Another highly decorated gravesite

Wooden arches decorated with marigolds are typical decorations

The life of a small child is remembered and celebrated

This family shared food with us.  We learned that this woman's husband, now deceased, refused to eat well and take care of himself!  A lesson for all.

San Miguel de Allende - Friday afternoon cooking class

While language school occupies most of our day Mon - Thurs, our Friday afternoons are free and one of our options is a cooking class taught by Carmen.  In addition to doing administrative work in the school office, Carmen happens to be a fabulous cook!  On a personal note, Max is staying with her and her family during his time in Mexico and considers himself extremely lucky.  Carmen and her husband speak only Spanish in their home and Max's fluency is really improving.  AND, he's also eating wonderful meals three times a day!

Today we're learning how to make Chile Rellenos.  We're also going to make seasoned rice and refried beans.  Regarding the beans, we use canned and then 'refry' in a skillet with more oil.  Heart-stoppingly delicious!  

Carmen is so expert at preparing these dishes that I have to take photos just to remember each of the steps involved.  We students also get to help in prepping, cooking, stuffing, and cleanup.  This entire meal is prepared in the small outdoor kitchen at the school.  Notice the great tile counters (with two burners built in). I've copied Carmen's recipe below in Spanish and translated afterwards into English. 

As you may have already guessed, everything turns out amazing and is completely consumed by all students.  Carmen made preparing this dish seem so easy.  The challenge remains for me to try it at home without her help.

The key to great food - fresh ingredients!

Max is a willing helper 

First browning rice in a little oil before adding water and seasoning

While Carmen's recipe lists only cheese as stuffing, our chiles are 'adapted' and also have sauteed beef, tomatoes, and onion added as filling.  

After burning the skin and 'sweating' in a plastic bag, the skin of the chiles is scraped off with a knife

Then, the chiles are opened and the seeds are removed.

The chiles are stuffed with Ranchero cheese and the meat mixture, then closed with toothpicks and coated with flour.

Here's something more - small tortillas filled with extra meat mixture and fried.

The floured chiles are then dipped in the egg mixture and fried in hot oil.  The warmed tomato salsa is used to cover the chiles and tortillas

Perfecto!!

Great food and great company!!

Chiles Rellenos (Carmen's recipe)

10 Chiles Poblanos

1 Queso Ranchero Grande (1 large block of Ranchero cheese)

5 huevos or 4 si son grandes (5 medium or 4 large eggs)

3/4 kilo de jitomates (1 3/4 lbs  tomatoes)

2 dientes de ajo (2 cloves of garlic)

1 cebolla mediana (1 medium onion)

1/2 taza de harina más o menos (1/2 cup flour more or less)

Aceite para freirlos (Oil for frying)

Se asan los chiles directamente en la flama hasta que la piel se queme.  Se van metiendo en una bolsa de plastico para que suden.  Se les quita la piel, se abre cada uno con cuidado para limpiarlos bien de semillas bajo el agua.  Se escurren, se rellenan con el queso, se enharinan y se dejan en espera.

Roast the peppers directly on the flame until the skin is burned. Then put into a plastic bag to sweat for a few minutes.  Then remove the skin.  Carefully open each chile and clean out seeds under water.  Drain, fill with cheese, flour and then set aside


Se separan las claras de las yemas; a las claras se les agrega una pizca de sal y unas gotas de agua.  Se baten a punto de turron, se les agregan dos yemas y 3 cucharas de harina.  Se 
capean los chiles y se frien en el aceite bien caliente.


Separate the egg whites from the yolks, Add a pinch of salt and a few drops of water to the egg whites. Beat until stiff, then add two egg yolks and 3 tablespoons flour. Coat the peppers in this mixture and then fry in hot oil.

Salsa

Se muelen los jitomates con los ajos y un buen pedazo de cebolla.  En una sartén se frien hasta acitronar, 5 rebanadas más or menos; de cebolla y ahí se agrega el jitomate molido.  Se frie bien, se sazona, con esta salsa se bañan los chiles.  Se acompañan con arroz y frijoles fritos.

In a blender, puree the tomatoes with the garlic and a slice of onion. In a skillet, saute the rest of the onion then add the puree.  To serve, ladle warm salsa over fried chiles and accompany with rice and refried beans.