Dolores Hildalgo - Part 2

   After leaving Dolores Hlldalgo's parish church (Part 1), Lori, Bob, and I continued exploring the city with a visit next door to the Museo de la Independencia (Museum of Independence).  The museum's building was once a prison, and when Father Hildalgo issued his 'Cry of Independence' on the church steps, one of his dramatic gestures was to march next door and free all the prisoners, inviting them to join the cause.  Besides local history, the museum's rooms also portray early Mexican history.

    Another long-lasting legacy of Father Hildalgo's was the introduction of pottery-making techniques to the area.  Today, Dolores Hildalgo is well-known as the center for production of Talavera, pottery which is decorated in vibrant colors and fired at very high temperatures for durability.  There are hundreds of shops along the streets and everything can be packed and shipped to accommodate shoppers from all over the world.  As we walked through the streets, some of the beautiful plates and bowls I saw were very hard to pass up.

   We found on this trip that when visiting Dolores Hildalgo it's important to save room for dessert!  The city is famous for its ice cream stands in the Zocalo, or Plaza.  These stands offer hand-made ice cream in creative flavors.  Pine nut (tried it - good!) and guacamole as well as shrimp, tequila, pork rind, and even octopus (I've heard it's chewy).  I learned that I could make up any flavor and ask for it.  I'd be told by the vendor that they were out of it but to come back the next day.  And it would be there!   Maybe something like 'Chile, Rum, Avocado, Chocolate Chip'.....??  Unfortunately, our trip was only a few hours - not enough time to create a new flavor.  For me, this is a good reason to plan a return trip.  There's also plenty to explore while I'm waiting for my new flavor.

This lovely Colonial building facing the Plaza is constructed of pink granite with Baroque columns.

Here's a 'visual' in the Museum of Independence depicting Father Hildalgo releasing the prisoners.

A painting in the museum illustrates the Aztec Calendar Stone, which was found in Mexico City and dates back to the 15th Century.

  

These Talavera toilets could certainly be a focal point of any bathroom.

More colorful bathroom ceramics

Lori next to a few mugs.

Here's a creative way of washing a windshield, not sure I'd recommend it though.

Saturday is one of the city's market days and there are many stands selling fresh fruits and vegetables.

A VERY popular snack in Mexico is fried pork rind.  In the Plaza, a vendor sells huge slabs - looks like the whole skin of the pig.  

One of the vendors selling hand-made ice cream in the Plaza.

Dolores Hildalgo - Part 1

  On a Saturday, I go with my friends from school, Bob and Lori, to the nearby town of Dolores Hildalgo.  The bus ride to the northern city takes about 45 minutes and the bus has great reclining seats, air-conditioning, and even a few monitors showing a movie.  Hardly the hot, dusty, rickety buses often evoked in tales of Mexican travel.  

   Knowing a little about Mexican history can be helpful when visiting Dolores Hildalgo, since it's considered the 'Cradle of National Independence.'  Here's a couple interesting facts:

     -  It was in front of his parish church that Miguel Hildalgo, in 1810, uttered his cry for independence (Grito de Dolores).  This was the beginning of Mexico's fight for independence from Spain which would continue until 1821, when Mexico became an independent nation. 

     -  Initially, the town was called simply Dolores, but was later renamed Dolores Hildalgo in Father Hildalgo's honor.

   There's a lot to see in Dolores Hildalgo and we only had part of one day.  Our first visit upon arriving (and object of this post) is the historic parish church.

Bob and Lori outside Dolores Hildalgo's Baroque parish church, built in 1768 and highly decorated in carved rose granite.

Here's a closer detail of the carved facade.

The central altar of the church, Mexican Baroque with its vertical columns.

Gilded altarpiece dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, the ever-present icon of Catholic Mexico.

This altarpiece is spectacular!  Completely carved wood from floor to ceiling.

A closer look at details

Another side altar with Corinthian columns

A side altar in the process of having its gold leaf restored.  This is a painstaking job requiring skill and patience.  The gold leaf, very thin and wrinkly, has to be laid on and glued on the stone, then rolled and polished to a high sheen.

A statue of Miguel Hildalgo was erected in 1891 and stands in the center of the town plaza.

Querétaro - Part III - The trilogy finale

The short, sad story of Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico, and his connection to Querétaro 

  While Querétaro has much to offer, our visit, alas, is only for the day.  We learn the story of Maximilian of Austria, and his brief time (1864-1867) as Emperor of Mexico.  

  Here's my summary - 

Maximilian became Emperor after the French invaded and gained control of Mexico.  His conservative regime was always unstable because he was never accepted by liberal Republican forces (I know this sounds odd) led by Benito Juarez.  After continual fighting, his military forces were defeated, pushed out of Mexico City, and then retreated to Querétaro.  During the ongoing siege, Maximilian lived at the Convento de la Santa Cruz (see Part I).  He was eventually captured and executed at the Cerro de las Campanas (Hill of the Bells).

   Today, Maximilian is generally remembered as a leader that, while somewhat ineffective, tried to unite the country and worked to improve life for the impoverished.

No, I did not take this photo of Maximilian!  

Our convent guide brings us to Maximilian's room - stark, with only two chairs, a small table, and a single bed.

In memorandum - 'From March 13 to May 15, 1867, this room was the home of the Archduke of Austria, Fernando Maximiliano Jose, and his prison from May 15 to 17 in the same year. '  He was executed on June 19. 

This small chapel commemorates the spot of his execution.  Maximilian gave his executioners gold so that they would fire only below his shoulders.

Today, Cerro de las Campanas is a beautiful park where special events are celebrated.  This young women is celebrating her Quinceañera (15th birthday).

Story of Maximilian's death and Hill of the Bells

   There's much more information about Maximilian available.  Here's one online source:

http://latinamericanhistory.about.com/od/19thcenturylatinamerica/p/maxaustria.htm

   All comments and input regarding this or previous posts are welcomed!