Friday, October 28, 2011

Dia de los Muertos in Pátzcuaro, Mexico

   My husband and I visited the town of Pátzcuaro in the state of Michoacán for its Day of the Dead celebration, one of the best known in Mexico.  The source for this holiday dates back over a thousand years in indigenous culture and honors the spirits of deceased ancestors, family, and friends.

   While the holiday is officially celebrated on November 1st and 2nd, preparations are made far in advance.  Many homes and businesses create private altars with offerings including flowers, candles, fruit, pan de muerto (sweet bread), and drinks (I noticed that beer and soda is popular) for the weary spirits.  

   In cemeteries, several days before, graves are cleaned and decorated with all the favorite things of the departed loved one. There can be photos, toys, special food dishes, religious icons--any personal remembrances.  Several things that are guaranteed to be there--MANY candles and flowers!!  The primary flower used is the orange-yellow marigold, there are thousands and thousands of these blooms all over.  A major symbol of the holiday is the skull and its shape can be found in dolls (Catrinas), candy (sugar skulls), bread, masks, and just about anything else.

   On the night of November 1st, friends and family gather at the gravesite.  There may be picnics, music playing, and stories being told.  This will last all night.  Hopefully, spirits will join in as well.  

   Visitors, like us, that come by are welcomed and sometimes offered food and anecdotes of the family's dead ancestor.  Rather than sadness, the deceased person's life is celebrated with appreciation and respect.  The local people's celebration contains a ritual aspect and spirituality that I find touching and soulful.

This altar is in a private home


This altar and its ofrendas (offerings) is in the entrance of our hotel, La Casa Encantada, which is a wonderful place and a perfect location for all festivities.  See below for link:
http://lacasaencantada.com/suites.php

Local businesses in town also create altars - a couple of large Catrinas in this one

A VERY large Catrina (loosely translated as 'female dandy')

Decorating a wooden arch for the entrance to the pier at Lake Pátzcuaro


The completed arch being erected
Decorated gravesites on the evening of November 1st

An elaborate gravesite and memorial



This cross is filled with fruit and pan de muerto (sweet bread)

Another highly decorated gravesite

Wooden arches decorated with marigolds are typical decorations

The life of a small child is remembered and celebrated

This family shared food with us.  We learned that this woman's husband, now deceased, refused to eat well and take care of himself!  A lesson for all.

Friday, October 21, 2011

San Miguel de Allende - Friday afternoon cooking class

While language school occupies most of our day Mon - Thurs, our Friday afternoons are free and one of our options is a cooking class taught by Carmen.  In addition to doing administrative work in the school office, Carmen happens to be a fabulous cook!  On a personal note, Max is staying with her and her family during his time in Mexico and considers himself extremely lucky.  Carmen and her husband speak only Spanish in their home and Max's fluency is really improving.  AND, he's also eating wonderful meals three times a day!

Today we're learning how to make Chile Rellenos.  We're also going to make seasoned rice and refried beans.  Regarding the beans, we use canned and then 'refry' in a skillet with more oil.  Heart-stoppingly delicious!  

Carmen is so expert at preparing these dishes that I have to take photos just to remember each of the steps involved.  We students also get to help in prepping, cooking, stuffing, and cleanup.  This entire meal is prepared in the small outdoor kitchen at the school.  Notice the great tile counters (with two burners built in). I've copied Carmen's recipe below in Spanish and translated afterwards into English. 

As you may have already guessed, everything turns out amazing and is completely consumed by all students.  Carmen made preparing this dish seem so easy.  The challenge remains for me to try it at home without her help.

The key to great food - fresh ingredients!
Max is a willing helper 

First browning rice in a little oil before adding water and seasoning

While Carmen's recipe lists only cheese as stuffing, our chiles are 'adapted' and also have sauteed beef, tomatoes, and onion added as filling.  

After burning the skin and 'sweating' in a plastic bag, the skin of the chiles is scraped off with a knife

Then, the chiles are opened and the seeds are removed.


The chiles are stuffed with Ranchero cheese and the meat mixture, then closed with toothpicks and coated with flour.

Here's something more - small tortillas filled with extra meat mixture and fried.

The floured chiles are then dipped in the egg mixture and fried in hot oil.  The warmed tomato salsa is used to cover the chiles and tortillas

Perfecto!!

Great food and great company!!


Chiles Rellenos (Carmen's recipe)

10 Chiles Poblanos
1 Queso Ranchero Grande (1 large block of Ranchero cheese)
5 huevos or 4 si son grandes (5 medium or 4 large eggs)
3/4 kilo de jitomates (1 3/4 lbs  tomatoes)
2 dientes de ajo (2 cloves of garlic)
1 cebolla mediana (1 medium onion)
1/2 taza de harina más o menos (1/2 cup flour more or less)
Aceite para freirlos (Oil for frying)

Se asan los chiles directamente en la flama hasta que la piel se queme.  Se van metiendo en una bolsa de plastico para que suden.  Se les quita la piel, se abre cada uno con cuidado para limpiarlos bien de semillas bajo el agua.  Se escurren, se rellenan con el queso, se enharinan y se dejan en espera.

Roast the peppers directly on the flame until the skin is burned. Then put into a plastic bag to sweat for a few minutes.  Then remove the skin.  Carefully open each chile and clean out seeds under water.  Drain, fill with cheese, flour and then set aside


Se separan las claras de las yemas; a las claras se les agrega una pizca de sal y unas gotas de agua.  Se baten a punto de turron, se les agregan dos yemas y 3 cucharas de harina.  Se 
capean los chiles y se frien en el aceite bien caliente.


Separate the egg whites from the yolks, Add a pinch of salt and a few drops of water to the egg whites. Beat until stiff, then add two egg yolks and 3 tablespoons flour. Coat the peppers in this mixture and then fry in hot oil.


Salsa

Se muelen los jitomates con los ajos y un buen pedazo de cebolla.  En una sartén se frien hasta acitronar, 5 rebanadas más or menos; de cebolla y ahí se agrega el jitomate molido.  Se frie bien, se sazona, con esta salsa se bañan los chiles.  Se acompañan con arroz y frijoles fritos.

In a blender, puree the tomatoes with the garlic and a slice of onion. In a skillet, saute the rest of the onion then add the puree.  To serve, ladle warm salsa over fried chiles and accompany with rice and refried beans.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Querétaro - Part III - The trilogy finale



The short, sad story of Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico, and his connection to Querétaro 

  While Querétaro has much to offer, our visit, alas, is only for the day.  We learn the story of Maximilian of Austria, and his brief time (1864-1867) as Emperor of Mexico.  
  Here's my summary - 
Maximilian became Emperor after the French invaded and gained control of Mexico.  His conservative regime was always unstable because he was never accepted by liberal Republican forces (I know this sounds odd) led by Benito Juarez.  After continual fighting, his military forces were defeated, pushed out of Mexico City, and then retreated to Querétaro.  During the ongoing siege, Maximilian lived at the Convento de la Santa Cruz (see Part I).  He was eventually captured and executed at the Cerro de las Campanas (Hill of the Bells).

   Today, Maximilian is generally remembered as a leader that, while somewhat ineffective, tried to unite the country and worked to improve life for the impoverished.

No, I did not take this photo of Maximilian!  

Our convent guide brings us to Maximilian's room - stark, with only two chairs, a small table, and a single bed.
In memorandum - 'From March 13 to May 15, 1867, this room was the home of the Archduke of Austria, Fernando Maximiliano Jose, and his prison from May 15 to 17 in the same year. '  He was executed on June 19. 

This small chapel commemorates the spot of his execution.  Maximilian gave his executioners gold so that they would fire only below his shoulders.

Today, Cerro de las Campanas is a beautiful park where special events are celebrated.  This young women is celebrating her Quinceañera (15th birthday).

Story of Maximilian's death and Hill of the Bells

   There's much more information about Maximilian available.  Here's one online source:
http://latinamericanhistory.about.com/od/19thcenturylatinamerica/p/maxaustria.htm

   All comments and input regarding this or previous posts are welcomed!

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Querétaro - Part II

   After leaving the convent, the rest of our day is busy.  We drive to the Hill of Sangremal, site of a historic battle in 1531 between the indigenous people of this area and the Spanish.  The Spanish won and the origin of what is currently Queretaro dates to this event.  


Not everyone is impressed by the historic battle on the Hill of Sangremal. 



  
 We also visit the Regional Museum, housed in a 16th-century structure that was formerly the Convent of San Francisco  (Seriously, every block in the old town contains either a convent or a church.)



Cloister of the Regional Museum, once the Convent of San Francisco



Max's favorite fountain


   Our final stop of the day is at the Church of Santa Rosa de Viterbo.  Another interesting story.  This church was designed in 1752 by Alarife Ignacio Maraiano de las Casas.  His critics felt his style too whimsical with its inverted buttresses painted grey and white like snails' shells.  So, for them, he added mocking faces.  See below. 

Church of Santa Rosa de Viterbo
Twin entrances to the church



Inverted buttresses don't add support - only for decor

The church style and its buttresses are unique to Queretaro

Ha! Ha! Ha! Ha!


A peak inside at the church's gold-embellished design - There's a wedding in progress


   After ingesting much knowledge and history, we earn a great Mexican comida.  We dine outside in one of the oldest sections of town.
Finally!  Lunch at a cafe in the center of town